We woke up refreshed, said goodbye to Lauren and Tony, the owner of the house who was playing guitar with a harmonica neck strap as we departed, and got on our bikes for the very last day of the trip! We took the back roads to Mahone Bay, the cutest little town that you ever did see. There, we ran into some more folks who were interested in our trip and it was neat to be able to say "ya we're pulling into Halifax tonight!"
But it was not an easy day. The wind, the WIND. We struggled hard against those Atlantic coastal winds all day long. We peddled with effort DOWNHILL. Are you joking? Downhill is the only break I get! It was hard.
We loved seeing all the little Nova Scotian towns on our way though, and people encouraged us with their words, honks, and Facebook comments.
A little lunch in Hubbards, and with 50km to go, we trudged on. Just keep swimming as they say.
5km from our final destination, Mary's bike did a funny thing. We still don't know exactly what that thing was yet, but her wheel got very wiggly, scrapey and all around unhappy. It began to make the noise we would imagine a dying llama to make. Instead of the toothy smile Gill usually sees when she looks back at Mary, she saw a nervous uncertainty. Mary slowly rolled her bike through the city - a little worried that it would disintegrate under her sore tushy.
But, we made it! We pushed up the hilly Chebucto, and ran right into Neighbour Pat, a friend from Halifax days past that was coincidentally in town. After a sweaty hug and Gill falling off her bike, we rounded the corner and were at lovely Catherine's, who, true to form, was ready with chili and beer when we walked through the door.
We couldn't believe that we had made it! I don't think it has sunk in yet. Gill thinks maybe it will when she's laying on her dock at the cottage. Mary thinks it may happen in one of the many, many Haligonian cafes.
Until then, it is party time! We've had so much fun over the past two days visiting Gill's old haunts and running into all of her old friends. Beer, food, ice cream, wine, Atlantic fish, and smiles. Wine + Vietnamese food + Ben + Citadel Hill = the perfect lunch. Garrison nut brown = the perfect beer. We even got to round out the trip and watch the second half of Anne of Green Gables last night, which we have been waiting to do since Newburgh, Ontario.
Halifax is magic and Gill is so happy to be back and to be able to show Mary what this place is all about.
Final thoughts:
We cannot express how life changing and utterly amazing this adventure was. We are blessed with good physical, emotional and mental health which gave us the ability to set out in the first place. We are surrounded with super supportive moms, dads, grandmas, grandpas, family and friends and everyone in between. And we are fortunate to live in such a beautiful country that offers the scenery, roadways and freedom to those that want to cross it on a bike. We are grateful.
We are indebted to all of our hosts, new friends, well wishers and everyone who gave us directions and a kind word along the way. Or an encouraging beep as they passed us in a car. Thank you a million times and then once more.
We really believe now that this is the best way to travel. If you want to get a feel for a country/province/city, bike it! For one thing, you'll be taking the old roads that pass through every town along the way, which gives you more places to stop and more people to meet. Driving on a highway just bypasses these places, and then all you see of a town ends up being a Tim Horton's or a Sobey's. (Although it looks like all we did was eat and drink coffee at Tim's, we assure you we spent an equal amount of time in independent establishments.) You're more likely to stop and get off your bike to take a picture or check out a public space or get ice cream than you are in a car. You appreciate flowers and bugs and chipmunks and birds so much more because you pass them slowly (especially when they're alive!) And you feel great because you're moving with the power of your own body. Your mind is active because your legs are, and you have thought after thought after epiphany. You feel on top of the world.
And our final word is that if you read our blog and said to yourself, "wow I'd like to do something like that, but I just don't think I could," we're here to tell you that you can! A bike trip is awesome because you can tailor it to your every need! You can do 50km a day instead of 100km. You can do a week or a weekend instead of 3 weeks. You can sleep in motels or hotels instead of camping. And you can go with a friend, a sibling, a child, a parent. We saw tons of different groups of bikers along our way: solos, brothers, couples, young families, (but not enough duo ladies - get out there gals). If you think you want to do it, but you don't feel prepared, just DO IT. All you need is gumption, the rest is optional.
We love you.
The pics:
1) Last day! In front of the majestic cabin with an equally whimsical lamp
2) Gilly and Mahone Bay
3) Our official, "we made it!"
4, 5, 6) Waterfront worshippers
7) Catherine and Gill!
8) Catherine's lover, Mike aka Tom Cruise
9) We find that this is true.
